It's been a year, but the memory is still as fresh as the day it happened.
Here's what I wrote in my journal as I reflected on our journey from Rome to Cortona.
Tuesday, June 12....
Early rising at 7:00 in order to m ake the 9:14 train to Cortona. We pack our luggage, eat breakfast - don't forget the wonderful cappuccino - and pay our bill. We are cutting it close. With our cumbersome - no other word can describe them - luggage we hustle down to the groundfloor using the elevator and emerge onto the street. (So much for the "fairy tale" the clerk gave me when I purchased my luggage - or is it that the luggage has too much in it?!)
Walking briskly - or as brislky as one can on uneven brick-paved sidewalks and streets, we dash toward the termini (that's train station to you non-Italian speakers :-) At one point I'm walking along and 2 young Italian men - talking and smoking in the middle of the sidewalk - refuse to acknowledge that a sweating, out-of-breath, testy, older American women needs to get by them. My luggage wheels graze the foot of one of them and I turn and snarl in my best ugly American voice, "If you'd moved aside it wouldn't have happened!" They're probably still telling the story of that woman - and her crazy American ways.
Onward toward the termini.
Dripping - red-faced, struggling with luggage we arrived at the station. Ok - now what do we do? Did we think to ask all our "world traveler" family / friends how to manage? Of course not! So Sheryl waits in one line while I investigate the self-service ticketing. Shoot... this is easy. Press "English" and follow the directions: locate our stop (Camuci-Cortona) - insert credit card - 2 adult tickets - prints receipt. Grab paper, hustle over to Sheryl and off we struggle toward the train bays. Looking at receipt - looking for train number. Finally really look at the piece of paper and notice that it says... ""This is not a ticket" ***!!### Rush back to machine and, you guessed it, no ticket. Did it print a ticket or is someone now enjoying a trip to Cortona courtesy of one dumb American.
We get in a ticket line and tell our sad story to the clerk. She prints out a statement... yes it printed the tickets. Any recourse? No.
We've now missed the 9:14 train and next one is at 11:14. No way to let Barb and John know; hope they guess we'll be on next one. Since we now have the time, we head downstairs - yes, still lugging those bags. We find the toilette and then begin a search for a camera for Sheryl. We luck out. Next stop - McDonald's - yes, we caved to American culture and sought out an iced cold coke!
Upstairs we find our train, board, find seats, and prepare to enjoy the 2 hour trip through the Italian countryside. Little did we know our troubles were only going to get more interesting.
Nearing Camucia we prepare ourselves for depature by gathering luggage and stand by the door. The train stops. We're ready. Door opens? No.. As we stand there in utter perplexity the train begins to move!! Wait.. we want off!! Sheryl reaches up toward a red button mounted near the door and before she can pull it, a collective NO-O-O-O! rises from the other inhabitants of our car. Apparently if one pushes that red button a hefty fine and possibly jail can result.
Why didn't we get off? Well... our well-traveled friends / family inform us much later as did a lovely young man and his father who were traveling in our car that day - YOU OPEN THE DOOR FOR YOURSELF! Of course, why didn't we think of that? Hmph!
The young man (who spoke English) and his papa (who didn't) helped us. We could get off at the next station and buy a ticket back to our station. No problem... we know what to do now - open that door as soon as the train stops at the station!
So we disembark at Castiglion Fiorent to return to Camucia. And the beginning of a long and undesired acquaintance with the passaggio (a passage way that takes you underground the train tracks to other side of the tracks - meaning hoisting / lugging those bags down and then up a flight of stairs). A lone male passenger (no English) is standing on the platform and we're trying to get inside the station to purchase a ticket. Finally I search my memory banks for the Italian for ticket and he takes us around the building to the back door. Inside a self-service ticket machine awaits. Despite our minimal Italian (lessons for sure before I travel here again!) we get our tickets. Train arrives about 20 minutes later. (Remember? Barb and John are supposed to meet our train and take us to our apartment? They have no idea where we are by now!)
Luggage on, we're on - we stand by the door. We won't be fooled twice! Fortunately, other people are getting off so our stumbling off the train doesn't have to occur at light speed.
OK - now what? There is a square in front of the train station with a taxi stand (no taxi available), a bus stop, and several cars coming and going. Barb and John? No hope there. So we wait for a bus. One arrives. Does it go to Cortona - Via Guelfa? Si. Do we have a ticket? Non But the driver must have sensed the desperation in our voices and in our looks because he invited us onboard. Air conditioning and a beautiful drive up a winding road to the town of Cortona. The driver stops at the Piazza della Republicca and points in the direction of Via Guelfa. We proceed to Via Guelfa, but I can tell Sheryl is a bit unconvinced that I know where I am going. (Can you blame her?) The Via Guelfa sign assures her and we begin our descent toward #70, our apartment for our stay. As we continue to descend, Sheryl's skepticism returns, but just before we reach the bottom and as I am getting ready to ask someone, we see Barb and John. What a welcome sight they are!! Just a few more steps to our place - John departs to find Fulvio Billi our host to sign us in.
I haven't mentioned the luggage recently... well, our apartment is up 2 flights of stairs. Yes, we have one final leg of our day's journey to drag - and I mean dr-aaa-g those bags up the stairs. But we made it!
The rooms are bene. A small kitchen (with clothes washer) overlooking the street below, a bathroom and bedroom. The mattress turns out to be molto comfortable -- praise the Lord! Barb & John surprised us with a welcome basket of coffee, cantucci, and a lovely card. Sheryl and I toast each other with wine from B & J and munch on aperitivo they brought us. Thunder and lightening and birds chirping. Across from our window an older woman hangs laundry outside her window. Rain is falling and it's 5:20. Dinner is at 6:00.
While we relaxewd, showered, and got ourselves checked in with Sr Billi, Barb is preparing a lovely dinner upstairs in their apt. Pasta (fresh ravioli w/ pesto and futtucini w/ ragu), salad, wine and pane. The food was so delicious and the best we've had - authentic too! We sit and enjoy our dinner and share our stories. Like two medieval troubadors entertaining the diners.
After dinnner we returned to our room. Walking the town and gelato on the agenda later.
Our first night in Cortona!
We toast
6/17/2008
8/01/2007
If It's Monday, This Must Be the Vatican!
This was the day to see the Vatican. With map, cameras, guide book, and directions to the Metro, we depart the hotel for a day of immersing ourselves in the glory of the Vatican and St. Peter's. The Metro stop is just up the street from the hotel in the Piazza de Repubblica. We found it, but, of course, we needed exact change. So back up to the street to get some euro coins. Back down, purchase the ticket, and enter the train. No problems! Lots of tourists - no sign of the dreaded pickpockets / thieves that we had been warned of. And me with my "atomic" purse!
A short walk from the Metro stop and we found ourselves outside the Vatican Museum. On the advice of Lisa and Jen we stood waiting to be approached to by a guide to join a tour. (This is the way to avoid the long lines and get in to the museum quickly.) Did we get asked? ..... No! Was it our karma or just the wrong day? Oh well, we joined the line - which, by the way, moved quickly.
Inside the museum we moved toward the courtyard and through to the sculpture hall. There is so much to see here that I wish we would have had a guide. Next time.
The Vatican Museum houses art collected by the popes throughout the history of the church. Egyptian, Roman, Grecian, Dark Ages, Middle Ages, Renaissance. As one moves through the galleries the immensity of the collection is staggering. Sculpture, tapestries, frescoes, maps, and then finally, the piece de resistance.... the Sistine Chapel. The ideal way to see this Michelangelo masterpiece would be to be alone with music providing a background to the experience. However, crowds are herded into the room (I use the word herded deliberately) and then one is forced to push through the people to get a vantage point. All the while the guards are loudly"shhhh - ing" and watching for those individuals who always think the rules aren't for them (no pictures!). Despite these disadvantages, the chapel is awe-inspiring. (Recommendation - take binoculars to see the ceiling better.)
Leaving the VM we walk along the outside walls of Vatican City toward St. Peter's Square. We stopped for a bite to eat and to quench the ever present thirst due to the heat.
Arriving at St. Peter's via the route we took, one enters through the colonnade designed by Bernini. From shadows cast by these immense columns to the bright sunlight of the piazza! It's late afternoon and there were few people in the piazza. The fountains mist the air and provide a refreshing stop for pictures. Then we wound our way toward the basilica. Wow - we are really here - was one of my first thoughts. We spent over one and a half hours devouring the inside of this magnificent building. The only disappointment... Michelangelo's Pieta is behind glass and its power is diminished by it. But there is so much more that isn't.
Emerging from the basilica, we knew we were ready to return to our hotel. We found a cab - after a bit of tussle about which cab would take us. The drive back was like an amusement park ride! Wild and crazy. After departing the cab and it sped away, Sheryl discovered she had left her package in the cab. The contents... books, rosaries, AND her camera! What a dreadful way to end this wonderful day. I was convinced he would return it, but he proved me wrong.
We got to our room and readied for tomorrow's train ride to Cortona.
A short walk from the Metro stop and we found ourselves outside the Vatican Museum. On the advice of Lisa and Jen we stood waiting to be approached to by a guide to join a tour. (This is the way to avoid the long lines and get in to the museum quickly.) Did we get asked? ..... No! Was it our karma or just the wrong day? Oh well, we joined the line - which, by the way, moved quickly.
Inside the museum we moved toward the courtyard and through to the sculpture hall. There is so much to see here that I wish we would have had a guide. Next time.
The Vatican Museum houses art collected by the popes throughout the history of the church. Egyptian, Roman, Grecian, Dark Ages, Middle Ages, Renaissance. As one moves through the galleries the immensity of the collection is staggering. Sculpture, tapestries, frescoes, maps, and then finally, the piece de resistance.... the Sistine Chapel. The ideal way to see this Michelangelo masterpiece would be to be alone with music providing a background to the experience. However, crowds are herded into the room (I use the word herded deliberately) and then one is forced to push through the people to get a vantage point. All the while the guards are loudly"shhhh - ing" and watching for those individuals who always think the rules aren't for them (no pictures!). Despite these disadvantages, the chapel is awe-inspiring. (Recommendation - take binoculars to see the ceiling better.)
Leaving the VM we walk along the outside walls of Vatican City toward St. Peter's Square. We stopped for a bite to eat and to quench the ever present thirst due to the heat.
Arriving at St. Peter's via the route we took, one enters through the colonnade designed by Bernini. From shadows cast by these immense columns to the bright sunlight of the piazza! It's late afternoon and there were few people in the piazza. The fountains mist the air and provide a refreshing stop for pictures. Then we wound our way toward the basilica. Wow - we are really here - was one of my first thoughts. We spent over one and a half hours devouring the inside of this magnificent building. The only disappointment... Michelangelo's Pieta is behind glass and its power is diminished by it. But there is so much more that isn't.
Emerging from the basilica, we knew we were ready to return to our hotel. We found a cab - after a bit of tussle about which cab would take us. The drive back was like an amusement park ride! Wild and crazy. After departing the cab and it sped away, Sheryl discovered she had left her package in the cab. The contents... books, rosaries, AND her camera! What a dreadful way to end this wonderful day. I was convinced he would return it, but he proved me wrong.
We got to our room and readied for tomorrow's train ride to Cortona.
7/12/2007
Roman Rome
Sunday, June 10
No luggage still for Sheryl. After breakfast we head to the shops to find her something to wear. I had a skirt so she needed a top. She also needed some cough medicine as that was in her luggage too. After a trip to farmicia and a small discount store we return to dress for our day among the Roman ruins.
Luckily we were able to walk. With maps, cameras, our savvy bags and excitement we head south toward the Coliseum. As we passed a small piazza we decided to stop for a cool drink and a salad. Then back to our walk.
As we walked down the street we could see the Coliseum in the distance. Finally we are right there – along with many other people. And it is hot. We both decided we didn’t need go through it, it was enough just be there. Pictures cannot do it justice, but of course we took them!
The Via del forums runs alongside the area of the forums and no cars can travel on it. We walk and stop and take pictures. Even in a ruined state, it is magnificent. With only one day to see all this, we really didn’t go into the area and really look around. Passing the Victor Emmanuel monument, we arrived at the Piazza Venezia. From here we walk toward the Pantheon. On the way we stopped at a little café and had gelato and a cold drink. Obviously this is the upscale part of town – the bill for this was 16 euro! Oh well….
We arrived at the Pantheon, but I didn’t know it. I was looking all around, but I guess my map reading skills need work. Finally we looked at a picture in a tourist book, and guess what, we were standing in front of it. But it was closed! Very disappointed.
Pictures and then we begin the next leg…to the Trevi Fountain. Found it with no problems. Sheryl quipped: “Here we are with 1000 of our closest friends” Yes, it was crowded with people, but still beautiful. The water is aqua and refreshing. People are taking pictures and street venders are trying to sell any number of kotchkes. Sitting at the edge of the pool, we throw the requisite coins over our shoulders into the fountain. I don’t know about Sheryl, but I certainly want to return!!
Ok…next
The trip back to the hotel begins. Finally we arrive with no problems and decided to sit outside at the restaurant by our hotel for a pizza and cold drinks (notice cold drinks are the first order of business anytime one rests!). Next to us is an American group and we share stories of Rome.
The pizza was delicious (we were hungry) l Back at the hotel, we learned that Sheryl’s bag had been delivered from the airport. Yippee! I had told her so - I am vindicated.
No luggage still for Sheryl. After breakfast we head to the shops to find her something to wear. I had a skirt so she needed a top. She also needed some cough medicine as that was in her luggage too. After a trip to farmicia and a small discount store we return to dress for our day among the Roman ruins.
Luckily we were able to walk. With maps, cameras, our savvy bags and excitement we head south toward the Coliseum. As we passed a small piazza we decided to stop for a cool drink and a salad. Then back to our walk.
As we walked down the street we could see the Coliseum in the distance. Finally we are right there – along with many other people. And it is hot. We both decided we didn’t need go through it, it was enough just be there. Pictures cannot do it justice, but of course we took them!
The Via del forums runs alongside the area of the forums and no cars can travel on it. We walk and stop and take pictures. Even in a ruined state, it is magnificent. With only one day to see all this, we really didn’t go into the area and really look around. Passing the Victor Emmanuel monument, we arrived at the Piazza Venezia. From here we walk toward the Pantheon. On the way we stopped at a little café and had gelato and a cold drink. Obviously this is the upscale part of town – the bill for this was 16 euro! Oh well….
We arrived at the Pantheon, but I didn’t know it. I was looking all around, but I guess my map reading skills need work. Finally we looked at a picture in a tourist book, and guess what, we were standing in front of it. But it was closed! Very disappointed.
Pictures and then we begin the next leg…to the Trevi Fountain. Found it with no problems. Sheryl quipped: “Here we are with 1000 of our closest friends” Yes, it was crowded with people, but still beautiful. The water is aqua and refreshing. People are taking pictures and street venders are trying to sell any number of kotchkes. Sitting at the edge of the pool, we throw the requisite coins over our shoulders into the fountain. I don’t know about Sheryl, but I certainly want to return!!
Ok…next
The trip back to the hotel begins. Finally we arrive with no problems and decided to sit outside at the restaurant by our hotel for a pizza and cold drinks (notice cold drinks are the first order of business anytime one rests!). Next to us is an American group and we share stories of Rome.
The pizza was delicious (we were hungry) l Back at the hotel, we learned that Sheryl’s bag had been delivered from the airport. Yippee! I had told her so - I am vindicated.
6/30/2007
We Arrive!
Day one - we arrived in Rome after a stop in London to transfer to a flight to Rome. Heathrow Airport is an adventure in itself; we had to disembark the plane the old-fashioned way - via steps down to the tarmack and then a walk into the terminal building. Who knows where we are - just follow the crowd. Oh... one important detail; you can only have ONE piece of luggage/bag in the airport. So we stop to stuff our handbags into our carry on pieces. After a bus trip and what seems to be miles of walking we arrive at the security station. Through that we now locate our terminal for our next leg. OK... not going to tell us until 30 minutes before the flight; I guess things are pretty tight here. When our gate is announced we scurry there to find a room filled with people. How did they get there ahead of us? And yes, we have the privelege of being searched and our bags looked through. Onto the plane... pilot announces that a passenger did not show up for the flight, but her luggage did. This means the luggage has to be removed. So sit tight we have a wait. Ready finally and off we go.
Rome. Here's the plan....pick up our bags, get some Euros, and meet our driver who will take us to our hotel, Hotel Italia. We were ready to begin this adventure. We arrived in baggage our driver was waiting for us so I went to find him, which meant that I had to exit the area (and couldn't return). I found the driver, no inglese!, of course. He was irritated and iIwas sweating from every pore on my body!!! we waited about 45 min. and then Sheryl came out. Apparently, when they removed the missing passenger's luggage ... they did and some other passengers as well. not only Sheryl's, but a family group with 4 small children - you get the picture.
Rome. Here's the plan....pick up our bags, get some Euros, and meet our driver who will take us to our hotel, Hotel Italia. We were ready to begin this adventure. We arrived in baggage our driver was waiting for us so I went to find him, which meant that I had to exit the area (and couldn't return). I found the driver, no inglese!, of course. He was irritated and iIwas sweating from every pore on my body!!! we waited about 45 min. and then Sheryl came out. Apparently, when they removed the missing passenger's luggage ... they did and some other passengers as well. not only Sheryl's, but a family group with 4 small children - you get the picture.
Our driver was dressed like a character player from Sopranos - black slacks, shirt, white tie, slicked back black hair, black sunglasses... the minute we exited the terminal he lit up a cigarette. He led us to a black Mercedes coupe, we climbed in, and away we sped to Roma.
We arrived at the hotel and can only think about taking a cool shower (it's about 7 pm). nice hotel, small, friendly, but... the shower opening was only big enough for a kate moss type. Imagine us squeezing through this opening each time we had to shower. We made it though (however, Sheryl is still having to wear her plane attire of sweat pants and long sleeved shirt!) and we left the hotel to explore the neighborhood. Luckily a restaurant was just outside our hotel. Our first meal in Rome - not exactly fine cuisine, but the wine was great. After we enjoyed our dinner, we stroll along Via Nazionale to check out our neighborhood. We discovered a great gelateria close to our hotel and savored our first bowl. As we sat on a bench, a local homeless man walked up to a shop window near us, swept off the debris, and settled down for a cigarette and a good night's sleep. Ah... Roma! Back to our hotel - sleep is on the menu.
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